Ball Drillers

Brendan S

Member
I don't wanna cause a argument here, but who are the best ball drillers around the northern NSW and Lower Queensland area, I used Paul Dellany previously and i wanted to use him again because he really did seem to know his stuff, I'm a 2 hander and drilling info for 2 handers is hard to come by, i've experimented with drillings and stuff but just can't seem to find what i'm looking for, so yer any names would be appreciated thankyou.
 
I wasnt aware that theres seperate information for drilling for "2 handers"

Regardless of how u deliver the ball, a good driller will require your Speed, RPM's, Axis rotation, axis tilt and obviously your PAP to drill any ball properly.

Theres 2 handers that deliver it with only 250 rpm or less and theres 1 handers that hit 550 rpm and beyond. Delivery type doesnt matter.

My suggestion is if u cant find somebody who can drill for you with that info then dont let them make decisions for you, get a ball u like the roll of now and use that layout. Atleast you'll know what to expect and will only have to factor in surface and more importantly what the ball is and wants to do for example u buy a matching solid and pearl set. if they are drilled the same u can expect a similar reaction but a smoother earlier roll from the solid and a later sharper breakpoint from the pearl. which helps for making ball changing decisions midgame.

I wasnt trying to be negative there but i see too many ppl who emphasize where the pin is to determine ball layouts, and pin location has nothing to do with it.
 
I wasnt trying to be negative there but i see too many ppl who emphasize where the pin is to determine ball layouts, and pin location has nothing to do with it.

Pin location does effect the ball motion, but it's not the only factor, as you mentioned above.
 
andrew you beat me to it lol. i was going to say if pin has nothing to do with anything they why have 1-4 and even 5 inch pins.
 
Two handers have some specific issues at times relating to generally low or even inverted tilt and tracking over holes. These can often be fixed with pitch changes. Anyone who thinks pin location doesn't affect reaction shouldn't be let near a ball press - the pin location is the biggest factor in how much of the flare potential of the ball is realised.
 
I've got issues with layouts mostly, i can't find a layout to suit me for heavy oil, i can't seem to hook anything in it, i do track near my finger holes but not really on them so thats not the issue, but my problem is i want all the specs but i havent got or can't even find anyone who has a camera or whatever i need to actually find my correct specs
Also i'm not a ball driller of any kind i pretty much believe anything i'm told when it comes to it but i understanding always was if your a right hander the pin should be centre or to the right if you want it to hook, and vise versa for a lefty, but i just watched a video of a ball mike fagan was bowling and the pin was so far to the left i was like da faq??? So all my knowledge went straight out the door
 
Excuse the pun but it seems you are hooked on hook?

Surely someone you know has an iphone, use the camera on that, it would be good enough and then take it to a reputable driller.
 
I've got issues with layouts mostly, i can't find a layout to suit me for heavy oil, i can't seem to hook anything in it, i do track near my finger holes but not really on them so thats not the issue, but my problem is i want all the specs but i havent got or can't even find anyone who has a camera or whatever i need to actually find my correct specs
Also i'm not a ball driller of any kind i pretty much believe anything i'm told when it comes to it but i understanding always was if your a right hander the pin should be centre or to the right if you want it to hook, and vise versa for a lefty, but i just watched a video of a ball mike fagan was bowling and the pin was so far to the left i was like da faq??? So all my knowledge went straight out the door

I got a look at Mike Fagans gear during the International Challenge and noticed this as well and I asked him about it. He said that his PAP with the Sarge Easter grip he uses was about 3.5 across by 1.5 up so that pin placement was about 4.5 pin to PAP, so really your knowledge wasn't off the mark, Fagan just has a real funky ball track/PAP.
 
What i meant by "Pin position has nothing to do with it" is placing the pin in a position relative to where your finger holes are is incorrect. Pin position in relation to your PAP and VAL is obviously the correct/accurate method.

I once had it explained to me that Pin above fingers made the ball go longer and pin below the fingers made it roll early, and you more the pin further right for "more hook" and left for "less hook" which i know now is a terrible way of laying out a ball. It still makes me laugh when you see somebody (usually the know it all type) pick a ball up off the rack and tell somebody that its drilled wrong for them, without knowing anything about the bowler's delivery specs. They just know "the pin" is in the wrong spot!

Sorry to hijack the thread there, i dont like being misunderstood or giving false info.
 
Brendan,

If you do want to use Paul again, He is currently in Wagga Wagga.
He is setting up a new bowl there.
If you want the contact number for the bowl, personal message me.
 
My mates and I travel from Newcastle to get Cameron Walsh at Ballina to drill our gear. He really knows his stuff and I'm sure he could help you out.
 
First off, do you understand what the different balls on the market do? At 300+ releases a year, nobody knows them all.Every pro shop you go to will have their preference because they understand those products. It's why you see Brunswick pro shops and Ebonite pro shops and Storm pro shops for example. For example, I like to be across Storm, Roto, Brunswick, Motiv, Radical, 900 Global, Columbia, and a bit of Track and Ebonite gear. That's a lot of releases to be aware of. Often customers are asking me about a ball and I'll go look it up. (The little companies have less releases, so they're easier to be across! Whereas Storm are a pain, because it feels like they release a ball about every week, but Canberra is pretty Storm-centric.)

It's all about surface, both the material the ball is made of and how your pro shop person prepares it. Then the core, it's RG and differential, both total and intermediate, then pin to PAP distance, then MB placement or even creation via the drilling. There's a number of ways to lay all that stuff out. Starting to sound complex? That's because it is, because all these factors relate to each other and the lane surface and oiling pattern. Anybody telling you it's simple is kidding themselves. A good technician can work it out fairly quickly.

Seek and use someone who has done all the hard work. In your neck of the woods, James McGinty at Coffs Harbour is an old friend of mine, he's also good at balancing out the factors toward the reaction you're after. I've seen his work and we've spent many hours having bowling ball nerd discussions. He knows his stuff. I've heard good things about Cameron Walsh and think he's a decent fellow, but have no direct experience with his work so I can only give him a plug second hand. (Sorry Cameron!) :) I simply don't know enough about the Brisbane scene to comment.

As for pin-left, right, up, down - It's all relative to your PAP (look it up): Sean Rash uses pin-left layouts almost exclusively. It gets his ball down the lane and keeps it alive longer. I use pin centre and pin left for the same reasons. If I were on Brunswick Staff, I'd use more pin left like Sean to extend the early rolling nature of a lot of their gear into that really useful "continuous rainbow" shape on the backend. In contrast, Jason Belmonte doesn't use these layouts, as his track diameter is very, very large, (giving him a longer PAP to grip centre distance) so this kind of layout would come close to reverse flaring (rumble, rumble, pancake hit) and Storm gear pushes further downlane anyway. Mike Fagan, with a small track diameter (and shorter PAP to grip centre distance) and the in between reaction nature of Track (predominantly asymmetric) gear, uses longer pin to PAP layouts for the same reason Sean Rash does. One last note - Pin up can make a ball go longer, it can also make the ball respond faster to friction and hook more; providing it responds to friction in the first place. Again, it's all relative.

So find someone who can measure your PAP and lay stuff out accordingly. Like I say on my site; Anything less is guesswork.
 
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