Storm/Rotogrip Surface instructions

androooo

hmmmmm......
Staff member
Thus was posted on BallReviews.com... Could be handy.

Thank you for contacting us with your concern. As far as ball reaction is concerned, we have several recommendations to maintain ball performance and life, but the primary area of concern is with the surface topography of the ball. As a quick over-view, surface topography in the bowling industry has been measured with specific ‘Ra’ and ‘Rs’ standards. These values directly relate to how aggressive the coverstock is and how much friction the coverstock can generate. The Ra value measures the standard deviations above or below the surface of the ball. For example, a series of high peaks and low valleys would be measured with an extremely high Ra value. Likewise, the Great Plains with a relatively smooth landscape and rolling hills would have a low Ra value. Rs isn’t as important, but by definition is the average distance between each individual peaks.

The reason these numbers are important is because of the correlation between ball reaction and high Ra and Rs values. Essentially, the greater the Ra and Rs number, the more friction the coverstock can generate. The more friction the coverstock can generate, the greater hook potential the ball will have. What happens when a ball dies is the coverstock has lost the surface deviations originally found on the ball from the out of box finish. These deviations (high Ra and Rs numbers) are created in our finishing and rounding process by creating deep grooves, cuts, and scars on the surface of ball. Later, when the ball is finished, these rough surface deviations are smoothed and ‘polished’ but they aren’t completely removed. If you were to then examine the coverstock on a micron level, the steep peaks and valleys would still be on the surface of the ball, but they would be rounded. This creates the type of ball motion where the ball will still skid through the heads and midlanes cleanly, but still have a tremendous amount of friction generation capabilities as the ball enters the buff or exits the pattern.

However, as the ball encounters normal use, these peaks slowly flatten and the valleys collapse. If measured after normal use, the once high Ra and Rs numbers would be much lower than the previous out of box finish. Hence, the ball slowly loses ball reaction with each use. Cleaning the surface will help keep the ball reaction consistent and also break down lane oil, but it isn’t capable of restoring original out of box Ra and Rs values. Luckily, our research has found a fairly simple method to restore the out of box finish.

In order to restore these numbers, abralon pads are recommended for virtually every ball in our current or past production line. The easiest and fastest way to refinish the ball is to use a 360 grit abralon pad on the ball. If the ball is being finished by machine, 60 seconds is usually sufficient whereas other methods may take longer. The whole idea is to thoroughly, cut, scar and groove the surface of the ball with the 360 grit pad. Before finishing the 360 grit, make sure the entire surface of the ball has been evenly cut. If it is done by hand or by a ball spinner, a cross-hatch finish is recommended. For the next stage, very lightly sand the surface with a 500 grit abralon pad. This will lower the Ra and Rs values slightly, but it isn’t going to completely destroy the surface deviations created from the previous stage.

After the ball has been lightly sanded with 500 grit abralon, please skip directly to the original out of box finish. For example a 4000 grit finish, no polish would require using a 360 grit abralon pad, then light application of a 500 abralon pad finally, skip the 1000 and 2000 stages and go directly to the 4000 finish. The 360 and 500 grit abralon pads will reproduce the original deep grooves and cuts from the factory rounding and finishing process setting the foundation for the final finish. Then, by skipping directly to the 4000 grit abralon stage, the surface will be smoothed and ‘polished’ without destroying the surface deviations. This effectively leaves the surface with the high peaks and deep valleys, but they aren’t as sharp or jagged. This should restore the original ball reaction allowing the ball to skid on oil, read the lighter buff areas of the pattern and still have amazing recovery potential on the backend.

For polished balls, reproduce the 360 and 500 grit finish and then apply Storm Step 2 Finishing Compound. This is the exact same finishing compound we use on all of our 1500 grit polished balls. The trick to the polish application is to use less polish and very light pressure. Step 2 Finishing Compound has a resurfacing medium in it that sands the ball while it is being polished over-application of the compound will effectively destroy the same surface deviations that originally gave the ball it’s strong out of box finish.

The key to restoring any finish is deeply cutting the ball with the fresh 360 grit abralon pad and then very lightly applying a 500 grit pad. The same is true of the final step as well. Over-application of the 1000, 2000, or 4000 grit pads can destroy the surface deviations created by the 360 and 500 steps weakening the over-all ball reaction.

Hopefully, if the sanding process has been repeated successfully, the end results will yield a ball with nearly the exact same Ra and Rs values originally found on the out of box finish restoring life back into the ball.
 
I rsaw this about a month ago now and decided to try it. It does work particularly well on pearl and polished balls but is not so effective on solid balls.

Shayne
 
Tried that on a few older balls lately, 4 sides with 500 abralon then Ebonite factory finish polish seems to work good. Must put a few newer ones on the spinner next week(espec the cell pearl!!).
Ive seen people go up to 4000 with the pads then 'burn' the polish in so you cant even touch the ball for a couple of minutes, bad move!!!!!!
 
Any idea of how many games you can get out of a ball before needing to do this? Just a general guide would be helpful, anyone have this info?
 
Depends on the surface and condition of the lanes you're bowling on. Also your rev rate

Good synthetics you may get 50-60 games, but I've bowled on wood that bad the ball needed to be cut back after 6-12 games.... looked like a hatchet had attacked it.
 
Depends on the surface and condition of the lanes you're bowling on. Also your rev rate

Good synthetics you may get 50-60 games, but I've bowled on wood that bad the ball needed to be cut back after 6-12 games.... looked like a hatchet had attacked it.

Ok Thanks that gives me a guide to wrok with. I have a new Virtual Gravity and I just really want to look after this ball the best I can because it is just such an awesome ball.
 
Any idea of how many games you can get out of a ball before needing to do this? Just a general guide would be helpful, anyone have this info?

After about 2 1/2 games at Tuggeranong! My gear stops carrying in about frame 25 in league as the back flares are just sanded parallel! Serious dust issues there, I suspect. Everyone's gear looks like it. Just takes longer for the low rev rate guys and gals.

Last time I saw anything as bad was Chester Hill,where I had to resurface 4 balls after 10 games on a long pattern. Before that, Mayfield in the 1990's when BHP was still doing their bit for the air quality of Newcastle! Made my only Newcastle Cup final to find my plastic balls all sanded to about 600 grit around the track the next day. (Couldn't throw urethane there - waaaay too dry!)

So now I bowl league, come home, put the ball in the Haus machine the next morning to bowl league next week! Got the shiniest pair of Zone's in town!

p.s. Use ball cleaner on your Virtual Gravity. They definitely benefit from it.
 
After about 2 1/2 games at Tuggeranong! My gear stops carrying in about frame 25 in league as the back flares are just sanded parallel! Serious dust issues there, I suspect. Everyone's gear looks like it. Just takes longer for the low rev rate guys and gals.

Last time I saw anything as bad was Chester Hill,where I had to resurface 4 balls after 10 games on a long pattern. Before that, Mayfield in the 1990's when BHP was still doing their bit for the air quality of Newcastle! Made my only Newcastle Cup final to find my plastic balls all sanded to about 600 grit around the track the next day. (Couldn't throw urethane there - waaaay too dry!)

So now I bowl league, come home, put the ball in the Haus machine the next morning to bowl league next week! Got the shiniest pair of Zone's in town!

p.s. Use ball cleaner on your Virtual Gravity. They definitely benefit from it.

Thanks, I do clean it with Storm cleaner after everytime I bowl.
 
[quoteThanks, I do clean it with Storm cleaner after everytime I bowl. ][/quote]

And mine too:p:eek:
 
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