Sanding

Dave84

Dave84

Member
Hi I'm wondering who can give me an idea on sanding? I've heard it can be good and read where some people never use out of box cover stock? Why is this- are there any cover stocks that won't benefit a sand- and what's the difference with 500 vs 4000grit?

Cheers (looking to learn all the ins & outs)
 
The first point about people not using out of box finish is very rare. Most people use the same finish that the ball comes with, at least until they bowl the ball for a while. Sure once you bowl a few games, you might make slight adjustments to the surface to suit your need.

500 vs 4000 grit. Basically the higher the grit, the longer the ball is going to go down the lane before it grips. The lower the grit the early it is going to grip.

Think of it like a tyre, the more grip the tyre has, the sooner it is going to grab onto the road. As opposed to a tyre with no grip that is going to skid.
 
Very good analogy, cheers Toon. So in that case sanding with say 400grit something not in the thousands will grub and hook early apprised to like a 4000 where it would more snap? Of coarse depending on ball type also?-
No doubt ball spinners are best for that type of work?
 
Hey Dave you are spot on with your understanding however l'd be very reluctant to hit the lane with 500 or lower, the ball just can't hold it's energy long enough to get really good hitting power. Sure it will turn the corner and create a good entry angle but you just don't get the drive through the pins that you'd get with a smoother finish and flat back row pins usually pop up. 4000 will give more skid/flip and some very strong drive off the break point but can be difficult to read on some patterns. 1500-2000 generally gives you the best of both worlds.
 
your release stats also play an important roll in ball surface. For instance, i bowl the ball with alot of forward roll, if i were to hit a ball with say 800 grit, not only would the ball want to read the lane very early *surface*, my release being a forward roll will have a much shorter skid phase, and these 2 factors combined mean i would lose all energy as of about 40ft down the lane. so I tend to use 2000 for early read. 4000 normal and if i want a ball to read even cleaner then ill put some polish on.

on the other hand i do a guys gear here who bowls about 80° rotation and 23° tilt (both are regarded as high). high tilt and rotation Delay the hook phase because it makes the ball skid longer. So he uses 500-800 grit and because of his release stats the rougher surface help burn off that extra rotation and tilt.

Just thought i'd put that out there. When i started playing with surface about a year and a bit ago i thought that every surface was generic (500-800 smooth early, 3000-4000 last read sharper backend and 1000-1500-2000 between the others), but ive just figured out in the last 6 months or so if bowler A and bowler B both want an early rolling surface that doesnt necessarily mean that a low grit will suit them both. But thats a good place to start. :D
 
I'm guessing there's no point practicing on a plastic ball, although straight?
Can a ball be completely stuffed by practicing sanding the effects etc?
Thanks for all the assistance :) is there much of a difference with pearl cover stocks opposed to normal??
 
PAP

give that link a look. infact if you are ever bored give that whole wiki a look over. its amazing what you can find on there!
 
Cheers, I just googled the AMF Armadillo as your talking about doesn't seem 2 complicated, how would I work out the PAP of my ball using one?
Thanks again champ ;)
 
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