Bridge Cracked
- Thread starter jackson93
- Start date
garryarnol
Tasmania 2009 Holt champs
if it has been cracked while being drilled then the person that drilled it for you or the centre should replace it free of charge seeing as you have not bowled with it and have only just got it done because it is brand new and because of this there is no way that you should have it plugged as you have not had the chance to bowl with it plus think what you have paid to get it only to get there and not bowl it down the lane so if i were you see the manager of the centre and tell them what has happened and that it is there fault and you want a brand new one to replace it. plus another thing it might have been like that in the box and if so should never have been drilled and sold to you as it is faulty equipment hope this helps
Are you able to post any pics on here for some of the better ball drillers to have a look at to make comment. I'm led to believe that most ball warranties are voided if the finger holes are drilled within 1" of the pin and if the bridge is less than 1/4". If it is a defect with the ball then you should have it replaced from whom you bought it from under warranty.
jason_doust
The Bowling Geek
Storm covers are extremely agressive. And they're not alone in this respect. All that porosity gives you all that hook-in-the-box, but means you have a more fragile surface. You can't have it both ways. I haven't had one crack in my shop for quite a while though, and never a new one. It's usually old balls that crack when they are poorly maintained and just soaked with oil, making the resin inflexible.
If your driller's rig gets the shakes or they pulled the drill through too fast, this can also do it. Although I had a Triple XXXtreme bridge crack with the drill feeding in really gently (for the record - not my gear.) I suspect that the very blunt 31/32" bit was creating way too much heat while grinding it's way into the ball under most of my weight. (Which is why I have 4 x 31/32" bits that actually cut on hand in my own operation.)
It may have happened during drilling or as a result of a nasty collision in the the backend machinery. In any case, if it's the bridge and you're using grips, then you're just unlucky. Warranty won't cover it, but don't get too stressed about it. The ball will still strike like crazy and probably last for years as is.
If your driller's rig gets the shakes or they pulled the drill through too fast, this can also do it. Although I had a Triple XXXtreme bridge crack with the drill feeding in really gently (for the record - not my gear.) I suspect that the very blunt 31/32" bit was creating way too much heat while grinding it's way into the ball under most of my weight. (Which is why I have 4 x 31/32" bits that actually cut on hand in my own operation.)
It may have happened during drilling or as a result of a nasty collision in the the backend machinery. In any case, if it's the bridge and you're using grips, then you're just unlucky. Warranty won't cover it, but don't get too stressed about it. The ball will still strike like crazy and probably last for years as is.
Hi Jason,
Good point on the cover, I have just been on the phone with a bowling friend talking cover stocks. I know, I should really get more of a life.
One thing I have found is that the Hi-End performance balls really mark up easy as you would expect as they are a little softer etc etc.
I have found going the Mid Range stuff to be a little less prone to marking up and then play with the cover stock to work out what suits, but I am still learning so don't listen to much on that option.
Jason, do you have any words of wisdom to us simple bowling folk as to what to look for in a ball. Or is it a case of suck it and see.
Is there may be a list we can put together on balls that we have found to be a little more prone than others, or is it just pot luck.
What is recommended to fix such a crack. I took the option of leaving my first cracked ball on the shelf. I cracked my spare ball two weeks ago as well. But I run my bridge thinner than recommended and take the risk over reduced comfort.
Good point on the cover, I have just been on the phone with a bowling friend talking cover stocks. I know, I should really get more of a life.
One thing I have found is that the Hi-End performance balls really mark up easy as you would expect as they are a little softer etc etc.
I have found going the Mid Range stuff to be a little less prone to marking up and then play with the cover stock to work out what suits, but I am still learning so don't listen to much on that option.
Jason, do you have any words of wisdom to us simple bowling folk as to what to look for in a ball. Or is it a case of suck it and see.
Is there may be a list we can put together on balls that we have found to be a little more prone than others, or is it just pot luck.
What is recommended to fix such a crack. I took the option of leaving my first cracked ball on the shelf. I cracked my spare ball two weeks ago as well. But I run my bridge thinner than recommended and take the risk over reduced comfort.
jason_doust
The Bowling Geek
Oh goodness John, There's 150-200 balls released each year! And they're all pretty damned good! So it's really hard to answer your question. Look for gear that provides the shape you prefer on different conditions. For example, (picking a brand less people throw) a Motiv Cruel C-51 (their strongest ball) has a similar shape on last year's Nationals pattern to the Motiv RX-1 (their "weakest" ball) on our house shot at Tuggeranong. And my RX-1 is drilled weaker! I like gear that lets me play straighter through the front of the lane whenever I can. I'm not welded onto that philosophy, but it is my preference.
To fix the crack, I'd machine out the bridge and plug both fingers. That's why I say leave it be for now. "First, do no harm", as Hippocrates reportedly said.
I don't use grips, which gives me a much needed lower rev rate capability and keeps my bridge at 5/16" with much smaller holes than grips use. I've never cracked a bridge since "going commando" as it were.
To fix the crack, I'd machine out the bridge and plug both fingers. That's why I say leave it be for now. "First, do no harm", as Hippocrates reportedly said.
I don't use grips, which gives me a much needed lower rev rate capability and keeps my bridge at 5/16" with much smaller holes than grips use. I've never cracked a bridge since "going commando" as it were.
Hey Jason,
I like the term Commando style for none-grip set up. Funny.
My thought was is there a list of balls that people find crack more than others. Is there a trend, at least that way people can be aware and not surprised. A ball will get damaged, no two ways about it. It’s path from foul line to ball return is not gentle.
I like the term Commando style for none-grip set up. Funny.
My thought was is there a list of balls that people find crack more than others. Is there a trend, at least that way people can be aware and not surprised. A ball will get damaged, no two ways about it. It’s path from foul line to ball return is not gentle.
jason_doust
The Bowling Geek
IMHO, bridges sometimes just crack. There were some balls a few years ago that were particularly prone to it, but that doesn't seem the case these days. Whenever you put 2 x almost 1" holes right next to each other, you're dramatically weakening the structure of the shell. However, if you made the shell strong enough, I bet nobody could hook it these days. Urethane balls last almost forever, for example.
Added to the fact that the modern game of throwing the ball almost straight and letting the ball company engineers hook it back means that players track really high these days. This means that the bridge is likely to strike pins, which act as big white hammers on the ball. This is purely anecdotal eveidence, but I'm sure I see a lot more bridges crack on guys who track really high. Especially as balls age and the bridges soak up oil, as it can wick down the sides of the grips and penetrate the coverstock from three sides of the bridge.
Today's snow tyre ball covers just don't have the structure to last as long, which of course, is just great if you're a ball manufacturer, as you want them to wear out after lasting just long enough. People often complain about how balls get so much more damage than the old days. I say the reason lies with the balls much more than the centre operators in most cases. Players prefer gear to hook more rather than get off their dates and hook it, so manufacturers are happy to oblige, but it comes at the price of ball longevity.
As for balls that crack, I'd rather talk about the good ones. But that's another thread.
Added to the fact that the modern game of throwing the ball almost straight and letting the ball company engineers hook it back means that players track really high these days. This means that the bridge is likely to strike pins, which act as big white hammers on the ball. This is purely anecdotal eveidence, but I'm sure I see a lot more bridges crack on guys who track really high. Especially as balls age and the bridges soak up oil, as it can wick down the sides of the grips and penetrate the coverstock from three sides of the bridge.
Today's snow tyre ball covers just don't have the structure to last as long, which of course, is just great if you're a ball manufacturer, as you want them to wear out after lasting just long enough. People often complain about how balls get so much more damage than the old days. I say the reason lies with the balls much more than the centre operators in most cases. Players prefer gear to hook more rather than get off their dates and hook it, so manufacturers are happy to oblige, but it comes at the price of ball longevity.
As for balls that crack, I'd rather talk about the good ones. But that's another thread.
GeorgeF
Hypercell = Hyperhook!
One important thing to note in this instance is that the fingers holes met down the bottom of the hole (I have received photos to confirm this). I can tell you when the fingers meet it is not usually covered under warranty from the ball manufactuer (doesnt matter what brand you throw).
I do believe though that Storm and the local distributor who supplied the ball are working with the client and ball driller involved and are looking at getting the matter resolved quickly.
As a ball driller it is common knowledge that the bridge will weaken significantally if the finger holes meet down the bottom. Unless you have odd finger pitches it is best to avoid this at all costs as it affects the structural integrity of the cover and the warranty supplied by the manufactuer.
I do believe though that Storm and the local distributor who supplied the ball are working with the client and ball driller involved and are looking at getting the matter resolved quickly.
As a ball driller it is common knowledge that the bridge will weaken significantally if the finger holes meet down the bottom. Unless you have odd finger pitches it is best to avoid this at all costs as it affects the structural integrity of the cover and the warranty supplied by the manufactuer.
