2nd-XBlem-Xout-XComp stock?

Do topweights/pin placements influence your purchase?

  • Yes - (I know exactly what I want in ball specs and won't settle for anything less)

    Votes: 19 70.4%
  • No - (I'll settle for any ball spec and take what I can get if the price is good)

    Votes: 2 7.4%
  • Don't know - (Never understood the difference or even given it serious thought until now)

    Votes: 6 22.2%

  • Total voters
    27
Hi People,

I'd just like to get some feedback as to the pros and cons of brand new bowling balls sold as 2nd/XBlem/Xout/XComp stock. As I understand, this stock is often available at a greatly reduced price compared to RRP as they often consist of irregular topweights and pin placements. Cosmetic blemishes aren't an issue as far as I'm concerned as they don't affect the ball's performance in any way. What I'm particularly curious about are the irregular topweights and pin placements for example (Top 2.72oz, Pin 0-1 or Top 3.86oz, Pin 6.5+)

I would like to know how much emphasis people place on extremely short or long pin placements. If you are a high rev cranker, do you steer clear of these pin placements and choose to pay full price for a ball and get your first choice in ball specs? Perhaps it doesn't matter to you and you're happy to take whatever you are given, as long as the price is good? For a low rev stroker, would it matter? Would the difference in ball reaction really be that different?

I've been told by one of our valued members that a topweight of approx 3.0oz is ideal and around about what you should look for, however with some of the great bargains I've come across during my many visits to various sites in the U.S (savings of over AU$100 each ball, is it worth purchasing a ball with topweights of 5.0oz+ and pin placements of 5"+ or <2"?

Who here has purchased 2nd-XBlem-Xout-XComp stock and was it worth the saving?

I appreciate any feedback :)
 
Pin distance can ultimately determine what you can legally do when you drill a ball I believe - example, you can't really have an axis weighted drilling on a pin less than 2 inch without putting an illegal-sized weight hole to drill out the excessive side weight due to the CG being so far from your grip center.

I think.

I've been told anything over 2 inch is ideal for various drilling patterns.
 
Pin distance can ultimately determine what you can legally do when you drill a ball I believe - example, you can't really have an axis weighted drilling on a pin less than 2 inch without putting an illegal-sized weight hole to drill out the excessive side weight due to the CG being so far from your grip center.

I think.

I've been told anything over 2 inch is ideal for various drilling patterns.

You can with a low enough top weight. I lived in the states with a guy who had a red hammer with 0.8 TW NIB. He had it drilled label axis with no x-hole and it was legal.

Likewise with some of these really long pins, you could drill pin on axis with negative weight. It'd roll liked it was pushed down a ramp, but you could do it, I suppose!

Another answer to the original Q coming...

Cheers,
Jason
 
Hi People,
I'd just like to get some feedback as to the pros and cons of brand new bowling balls sold as 2nd/XBlem/Xout/XComp stock. As I understand, this stock is often available at a greatly reduced price compared to RRP as they often consist of irregular topweights and pin placements. Cosmetic blemishes aren't an issue as far as I'm concerned as they don't affect the ball's performance in any way. What I'm particularly curious about are the irregular topweights and pin placements for example (Top 2.72oz, Pin 0-1 or Top 3.86oz, Pin 6.5+)
I would like to know how much emphasis people place on extremely short or long pin placements. If you are a high rev cranker, do you steer clear of these pin placements and choose to pay full price for a ball and get your first choice in ball specs? Perhaps it doesn't matter to you and you're happy to take whatever you are given, as long as the price is good? For a low rev stroker, would it matter? Would the difference in ball reaction really be that different?
I've been told by one of our valued members that a topweight of approx 3.0oz is ideal and around about what you should look for, however with some of the great bargains I've come across during my many visits to various sites in the U.S (savings of over AU$100 each ball, is it worth purchasing a ball with topweights of 5.0oz+ and pin placements of 5"+ or <2"?
Who here has purchased 2nd-XBlem-Xout-XComp stock and was it worth the saving?
I appreciate any feedback :)
Good question!

Firstly, Top Weight is a small-ish issue today, but I'd run like hell from a ball with 5oz! Talk about erratic at the break point and impossible to remove extra side weight! 3oz is good for strokers who want some length up front and have an average size mit. More TW=more length and more flip, less TW=less length and more roll. Horses for courses. If you start with very high TW, you may even struggle to get it under the 3oz allowed.

Giant pin out balls (4½+") allow you to do some pretty funky stuff, but you'd better know your PAP and track geometry well to get any real advantage out of them. They are good for some very specific layouts. Again, watch out for high TW's with these, as they will likely need an extra hole. Remember, if that pin is more that 6¾" from your PAP, your track flare direction is reversed and that could make the ball roll over the entire grip! Not great for roll or pin carry.

Many years ago, I had a Pink Hammer second with a 4½" pin and low top weight. It was a great piece, despite the dodgy colouration. I knew others with seconds who were less impressed and I had a Columbia U2 second that was undoubtedly the worst ball I ever bowled. The thing jumped a couple of inches in the air 50 feet downlane when it revved up!

It's the old rule. You get what you pay for. (And Caveat Emptor!) Maybe grab one as an experiment with something else you get and spread the risk.

Cheers,
Jason
 
You can with a low enough top weight. I lived in the states with a guy who had a red hammer with 0.8 TW NIB. He had it drilled label axis with no x-hole and it was legal.
Likewise with some of these really long pins, you could drill pin on axis with negative weight. It'd roll liked it was pushed down a ramp, but you could do it, I suppose!
Another answer to the original Q coming...
Cheers,
Jason


Ah thanks for pointing that out. I don't understand a lot of things to do with drilling
 
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